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DROP, CLOTH
curated by Glenn Adamson and Severin Delfs -
Proudly co-presented by Susan Inglett Gallery and Hollis Taggart, Drop, Cloth is a group show that presents a 50-year lineage of draping in contemporary art, both in the literal sense in which the substrate of the canvas is activated, and in the representational sense, where textile forms are depicted. Curated by Glenn Adamson and Severin Delfs and spanning two Chelsea gallery spaces, the exhibition navigates the social implications of textile and drapery as a feminist intervention and a method of identity exploration.
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Installation view at Susan Inglett Gallery, NYC | Photo: Adam Reich -
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Drop, Cloth embodies both visual pleasure and conceptual rigor. It takes as its starting point the myriad ways artists have engaged with drapery throughout art history, recognizing how fabric often assumes a freely expressive, proto-abstract quality. Drop, Cloth stages the double resonance of fabric: formally through its folds, patterns, and articulation of surface and space, as well as symbolically through its rich actions of hiding, presenting, revealing, and representing. Keeping in mind the recent resurgence of attention paid to contemporary fiber art — a genre which flourished in the 1960s and ‘70s but was consigned to obscurity until recently — this exhibition traces the evolution of this amorphous genre.
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GREG SMITH (b. 1970) is known for staging exhibitions that consider the possibilities and problems presented by our current technological deluge. He builds installations using an amalgam of unlikely materials and processes that trace contemporary limits of language, ownership, and governance. Through his enigmatic work, the artist navigates how systems of communication are constructed, dispersed, and convoluted.NOW-TIME-FOREVER-VOID pulls from themes relating to his most recent solo exhibition at Susan Inglett Gallery, in which his multimedia practice was employed to navigate the fragility and longevity of constructed language. The upper section of the work is gauzy and barely-there, contrasted by the heavier canvas of the lower half, further weighed down by bricks. The work is tense, appearing to strain under the weight, held aloft by what appears to be very little. The integrity of the fabric is pushed to the brink by the excision of letters and characters, rendered near-illegible by their exclusion. Smith's textual textiles question the weight and importance we place on systems that we've fabricated to better understand the world around us, poking at our own reliability as makers of meaning. -
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KENNEDY YANKO (b. 1988) is a sculptor and installation artist working in found metal and paint skin. Yanko deploys her materials in ways that explore the limitations of optic vision, underlining the opportunities we miss when looking with eyes alone. Her methods reflect a dual abstract expressionist-surrealist approach that centers the seen and unseen factors that affect, contribute to, and moderate human experience.Yanko's signature treatment of her materials walks the line of metal, paint, and textile, pushing the malleability of the mediums to their limits. Felt and Born All at Once is an example of this shaping, as reflective chrome and vibrant blues and yellows twist within and upon each other. Its form is somewhat contained, but the layers and depth of the work are revealed upon appraisal from every angle. The "skin" of the paint acts like a fabric would, all soft curves and gentle folds, while the metallic components buckle, bend, and behave in ways that are much more rigid and eye-catching. generating a tension between vibrance and austerity. -
Installation view at Susan Inglett Gallery, NYC | Photo: Adam Reich -
BEVERLY SEMMES (b. 1958) is a multidisciplinary artist whose work incorporates sculpture, painting, drawing, film, photography, and performance. These complementary elements adhere in surprising ways, probing the paradoxes and complexities of the female body and its representation.Well-known for her large-scale fabric works, Semmes emphasizes the power of the feminine, creating larger-than-life installations of objects and garments traditionally associated with female identity. Interested in both the history and subversion of craft, Semmes toys with scale and quantity as a method of imbuing the works with power. In Bow (Blue Curtains), the aqua tulle dresses are arranged in a row, the bodiless garments given strength in their numbers. The extra-long sleeves hang to the floor, and the translucent textile gathers and folds on itself in places, strengthening or lessening their effectiveness as true "curtains." The form of the gowns is subverted further, as they fold at the waist, "bowing" in unison. Such an action could potentially suggest supplication, yet Semmes' underscore of empowerment and the shoulder-to-shoulder arrangement push the gesture into a performative context, the host of dresses taking their bows at a curtain call. -
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ROSEMARY MAYER (1943-2014) was an artist involved in the New York art scene beginning in the late 1960s. Best known for her large-scale sculptures made with fabric, she also created works on paper, artist books, and outdoor installations, exploring themes of temporality, history, and biography.The works by Mayer included in Drop, Cloth, both sketches for an installation, are architectural in their depiction of draped fabric. The sketches lean heavily into this, a blueprint for the final installation piece. An armature supports the sinuous folds of the textile, the structure represented by thin pencil or simple, red paint. The fabric, on the other hand, is treated with devoted attention to detail, the representation of fold, drape, directionality, and volume rendered finely.
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Installation view at Susan Inglett Gallery, NYC | Photo: Adam Reich -
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LIZ COLLINS, Floating Lightning Wheel, 2023 -
GREG SMITH, NOW-TIME-FOREVER-VOID, 2025 -
MARTHA JACKSON JARVIS, South of the North Star, 2020 -
NINA YANKOWITZ, Queen of Stars, 1969
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GLENN ADAMSON is a curator, writer, and historian based in New York and London. He has previously been Director of the Museum of Arts and Design and Head of Research at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Dr. Adamson’s publications include Thinking Through Craft (2007); The Craft Reader (2010); Postmodernism: Style and Subversion (2011, with Jane Pavitt); The Invention of Craft (2013); Art in the Making (2016, with Julia Bryan-Wilson); Fewer Better Things: The Hidden Wisdom of Objects (2018); Objects: USA 2020; and Craft: An American History (2021). His most recent book, A Century of Tomorrows, was published by Bloomsbury in December 2024. Dr. Adamson is Artistic Director for Design Doha, a biennial in Qatar; curator at large for the Vitra Design Museum; and editor of Material Intelligence, a quarterly online journal published by the Chipstone Foundation. His current curatorial projects include Toshiko Takaezu: Worlds Within for the Isamu Noguchi Museum and Nike: Form Follows Motion for the Vitra Design Museum. He received his PhD in art history at Yale University.SEVERIN DELFS is Director of Development at Hollis Taggart and legacy steward of the Audrey Flack Foundation and Estate. He holds a BA (honours) from the Catalyst Institute for Creative Arts & Technology in Berlin, Germany. His curatorial and administrative work includes exhibitions at the Parrish Art Museum (Southampton, NY) and the LongHouse Reserve Sculpture Garden and Museum-Reserve Landscape (East Hampton, NY). He also co-curated the project “John Graham Comes Home” with Glenn Adamson at 1 Sidney Place, Brooklyn.
DROP, CLOTH
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